Cerro Gordo: The Silver City High in the Mountains

Perched at 8,500 feet in California's rugged Inyo Mountains, Cerro Gordo stands as one of the West's most historically significant—and stunningly isolated—ghost towns. This former silver mining settlement, whose name means "Fat Hill" in Spanish, produced staggering wealth in the late 1800s, with millions of dollars in silver, lead, and zinc extracted from its depths. Unlike many mining camps that have been restored for tourism or completely reclaimed by nature, Cerro Gordo exists in a fascinating middle ground—its weathered wooden structures still cling to the mountainside, accessible only to those willing to brave the challenging journey. Today, this remarkable ghost town offers visitors a uniquely authentic window into the silver mining boom that helped finance the development of Los Angeles and shaped the economic landscape of the American West.

The Remarkable History of Cerro Gordo

The story of Cerro Gordo encompasses Mexican prospectors, American entrepreneurs, dangerous freight routes, and one of California's most significant silver booms:

Discovery and Early Mining

The rich silver deposits of Cerro Gordo were first discovered by Mexican prospectors in 1865, who established small-scale mining operations in this remote location. By 1866, word of the silver strikes had spread, attracting American miners to the area. In 1868, businessman Mortimer Belshaw arrived, quickly recognizing the site's potential. Belshaw constructed the first reliable smelting furnace in the area and established the crucial transportation route known as "Yellow Grade Road" that connected the mountain mines to the valley below, transforming Cerro Gordo from a minor camp into a significant mining operation.

Boom Years: 1868-1876

Cerro Gordo's meteoric rise to prominence was swift and dramatic:

• By 1869, the settlement had grown to over 4,500 people, making it the largest population center in Inyo County
• At its peak, the town featured multiple saloons, hotels, a general store, a butcher shop, a brothel, and several residential areas segregated by ethnicity and class
• The Union Mine became the settlement's primary producer, yielding ore so rich that it was said miners could simply "scoop silver from the mountain"
• Production reached approximately $13 million in silver (equivalent to hundreds of millions today) and $9 million in lead over its lifetime
• Cerro Gordo became California's largest producer of silver and lead, earning it the nickname "Silver Mountain"

Los Angeles Connection

Perhaps most fascinating is Cerro Gordo's critical role in the development of Los Angeles. In the 1870s, Los Angeles was still a small pueblo of fewer than 6,000 residents. The tremendous flow of silver bullion, lead, and supplies between Cerro Gordo and Los Angeles created a commercial lifeline that significantly accelerated the city's growth:

• Freight teams known as "White Gold Teams" created a regular commerce route between the mines and Los Angeles
• An estimated 80% of Los Angeles's early economy came from trade with Cerro Gordo
• Historian Remi Nadeau famously noted that Cerro Gordo "became the silver thread that helped finance the ascendancy of Los Angeles"
• The Nadeau Hotel, Los Angeles's first luxury hotel, was built with profits from freighting Cerro Gordo silver

Transportation Innovations

Moving ore from Cerro Gordo's mountainous location to markets presented enormous challenges that drove technological innovation:

• Initially, mule trains carried ore down treacherous mountain trails to the valley below
• The construction of Yellow Grade Road in 1868 enabled wagons to make the journey, dramatically increasing capacity
• In 1872, Mortimer Belshaw constructed an aerial tramway—one of the first in the United States—to transport ore down the mountain
• At Owens Lake, specially designed shallow-draft steamboats, including the famous "Bessie Brady," carried ore across the lake to connect with freight wagons bound for Los Angeles

Decline and Abandonment

Like many mining boomtowns, Cerro Gordo's prosperity proved relatively short-lived:

• By 1877, declining ore quality and dropping silver prices led to decreased production
• A devastating fire in 1877 destroyed several key buildings, including Belshaw's original smelter
• The 1879 discovery of the massive silver deposits at Bodie drew miners and investment away from Cerro Gordo
• Operations continued sporadically into the early 1880s before most mining ceased
• Brief revivals occurred in the 1890s and again in the 1910s, when zinc mining became profitable
• The final mining operations ended in 1933, and the town was largely abandoned

What Makes Cerro Gordo Unique Among Ghost Towns

Several factors distinguish Cerro Gordo from other ghost towns of the American West:

Exceptional Isolation

Unlike many ghost towns that are now easily accessible via paved roads or even interstate highways, Cerro Gordo maintains its remote character:

• Located at the end of a steep, 7-mile dirt road that requires high-clearance vehicles
• No nearby services or amenities—the nearest town is miles away
• Harsh weather conditions, including snow in winter and intense heat in summer
• This isolation has preserved Cerro Gordo from vandalism and excessive tourism

Spectacular Setting

The town's dramatic mountaintop location offers:

• Breathtaking panoramic views of the Owens Valley, 5,000 feet below
• Vistas of the Sierra Nevada range to the west and Death Valley to the east
• Clear demonstration of the logistical challenges miners faced in extracting and transporting ore
• Exceptional stargazing opportunities due to minimal light pollution

Private Ownership and Preservation

Unlike many ghost towns managed by government agencies, Cerro Gordo has been privately owned throughout its post-mining history:

• From the 1950s to 2018, the entire town was owned by the family of Jody Patterson, who worked to preserve the site
• In 2018, entrepreneurs Brent Underwood and Jon Bier purchased the 300-acre ghost town
• The new owners have focused on preserving the town's authentic character while making it accessible to history enthusiasts
• Restoration projects have emphasized historical accuracy rather than commercial development

Architectural Diversity

The town showcases various architectural styles and building techniques:

• The American Hotel (currently being rebuilt after a 2020 fire destroyed the 1871 original)
• The Belshaw House, home to the mining entrepreneur who developed the town
• The bunkhouse, where miners lived in simple accommodations
• Mining structures including the Union Mine headframe and hoist house
• The assay office, where ore samples were tested for metal content

Industrial Artifacts

Cerro Gordo preserves an exceptional collection of mining equipment and industrial artifacts:

• Original ore processing equipment including stamp mills and crushers
• Partial remains of the aerial tramway system
• Mining tools, rail carts, and equipment left when operations ceased
• Everyday objects from the late 19th and early 20th centuries found in buildings

Visitor Information

Access and Tours

Visiting Cerro Gordo requires advance planning:

• Private Property: As private property, Cerro Gordo is only accessible through official tours or by special arrangement
• Scheduled Tours: Group tours are offered on select weekends, typically running 2-3 hours
• Reservations: Advance booking through the official website is required
• Special Access: Photography workshops, overnight stays, and private tours are sometimes available
• Road Conditions: The dirt road to Cerro Gordo requires 4WD or high-clearance vehicles and may be impassable after storms

Getting to Cerro Gordo

The journey to this remote ghost town is part of the adventure:

• Location: Cerro Gordo is located in the Inyo Mountains of Eastern California, approximately 8 miles east of Keeler off Highway 136
• Route: From the small town of Keeler, follow the signs to Cerro Gordo Road, which climbs steeply into the mountains
• Nearest Towns: Lone Pine (20 miles) or Independence (35 miles) are the closest communities with services
• Regional Context: Many visitors combine Cerro Gordo with trips to Death Valley National Park, Mount Whitney, or other Eastern Sierra attractions

What to Bring

Prepare for remote, high-desert conditions:

• Water: Bring at least one gallon per person—there is no potable water at the site
• Weather Protection: Hat, sunscreen, and layers for dramatically changing temperatures
• Footwear: Sturdy shoes with ankle support for uneven terrain
• Vehicle Preparation: Full tank of gas, spare tire, and emergency supplies
• Communication: Cell service is extremely limited or nonexistent—consider satellite communication devices

Photography Tips

Cerro Gordo offers exceptional photographic opportunities:

• Golden Hour: Early morning and late afternoon light dramatically highlights the weathered buildings against the landscape
• Night Photography: The absence of light pollution makes for extraordinary star photography (special permission required)
• Interiors: When permitted, the artifacts inside buildings offer compelling detail shots
• Panoramas: The elevation provides spectacular wide-angle opportunities showing the town in its environmental context
• Weather: Dramatic clouds, fog, or snow create especially atmospheric conditions

The Silver Legacy

Beyond its physical remains, Cerro Gordo's legacy extends in several important ways:

Economic Impact

The town's silver production dramatically shaped California's economy:

• Provided critical capital for Los Angeles during its formative years
• Established important trade routes that evolved into modern transportation corridors
• Created wealth that was reinvested in banking, real estate, and infrastructure throughout Southern California
• Demonstrated the economic potential of Eastern California's mineral resources

Cultural Significance

Cerro Gordo represents an important chapter in Western multicultural history:

• Notable for its mixed population of Mexican, American, Chilean, Chinese, and European miners
• The town's initial discovery by Mexican miners and subsequent American development illustrates the complex cultural dynamics of the frontier
• Archeological evidence reveals different living conditions and cultural practices among various ethnic groups

Technological Innovation

The challenges of mining in such a remote location drove important innovations:

• Cerro Gordo's aerial tramway pioneered technology that would later be widely adopted throughout Western mining
• Smelting techniques developed by Mortimer Belshaw increased silver recovery rates significantly
• Transportation solutions developed for Cerro Gordo improved regional mobility throughout Eastern California

Present-Day Preservation and Future

Cerro Gordo stands at an interesting crossroads between historical preservation and sustainable tourism:

Mining Practices and Environmental Legacy

Like many historical mining operations, Cerro Gordo's extraction methods left environmental impacts that persist today:

Historical Mining Methods

• Early extraction relied on pickaxes, black powder, and manual labor in dangerous underground conditions
• Processing used mercury amalgamation and later smelting to separate metals from ore
• Waste rock was simply discarded down the mountainside, creating massive tailings piles
• Water, an extremely precious resource at this dry location, was used liberally in processing

Environmental Considerations

• Mine drainage and tailings have left areas with elevated levels of lead, arsenic, and other metals
• Limited reclamation occurred after mining ceased, as environmental regulations were minimal
• Current owners are working with environmental experts to address historical contamination while preserving historical features
• The site offers a tangible lesson in the environmental costs of resource extraction

Nearby Attractions

Combining a visit to Cerro Gordo with these nearby attractions creates a comprehensive Eastern Sierra experience:

Natural Wonders

• Death Valley National Park: Just over an hour's drive east, featuring some of the most extreme landscapes in North America
• Mount Whitney: The highest peak in the contiguous United States stands directly across Owens Valley
• Alabama Hills: Famous rock formations near Lone Pine, featured in countless Western films
• Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest: Home to the oldest living trees on Earth

Historical Sites

• Eastern California Museum: In Independence, offering excellent regional history exhibits
• Manzanar National Historic Site: Preserving the story of Japanese American internment during WWII
• Laws Railroad Museum: Near Bishop, featuring vintage narrow-gauge railroad equipment
• Darwin: Another remote mining ghost town accessible to adventurous travelers

Related Ghost Town Experiences

If you're fascinated by Cerro Gordo, explore these other remarkable abandoned settlements: